French Cheeses Face Extinction

Paulette Marmottan is one of the remaining few farmstead cheesemakers in France, a nation known and defined by their love and consumption of cheese. She, her husband and son manage the 365 day-to-day laborious operations of a small farm in the French Alps, La Savinaz, where 33,000 pounds of persille de Tignes are crafted from 30 cows and 80 goats a year.

Though the exact number of cheeses proudly produced by the French used to number in the thousands, today, many of the traditional handmade varieties, prized throughout the history of France, are no longer being made. In fact, out of the 100 or so raw cheeses in production 3 disappear every year, this due primarily to economic reasons. The ones that remain are the few that can still command a sustainable price for production by discriminating cheese consumers.

"The paradox is that we're known as the land of cheese yet we're losing a increasing number," says Veronique Richez-LeRouge, president of the Association Fromages de Terroirs, a nation who fetishously has joked that they have a different cheese for every day of the year. Twentieth century French politician and war strategist, Charles de Gaulle is quoted for saying, "How can anyone govern a nation that has two hundred and forty-six different kinds of cheese?"

As is the case with 52 year old Paulette Marmottan, their backbreaking artisan craft is one passed down from generation to generation. Their methods combined with the unique terroir of the region yield distinctive cheeses, their secrets kept within the confines of the family alone. And when these families get too old to continue and the next generation decides they don't want to be farmers, these traditions die out and the cheeses become extinct. Traditional farmstead creations give way to industrialized companies and processed products.

In the United States, however, a return to pioneer living, a reverence for a simpler time and way of life is giving way and farmstead and artisan cheesemaking is on a rapid rise. Perhaps, this is France's destiny as well. As a nation that still consumes vast amounts of cheese, second only to Greece in the EU, a self-awareness eventually emerges. Whether or not France can bring about a rebirth in their cheesemaking traditions, only time will tell. (Sources: The Washington Times.com, The Huffington Post.com, Brainy Quotes.com)

Raclette or Fondue, The Better of the Two?

Raclette and Cheese Fondue are both delicious cheese meals of Swiss-Gallic origin, perfect winter and especially nice for the holiday season. Apparently, there's some debate which is better than the other...

According to the late French food writer, Robert Courtine, Raclette is a dish that « le gourmet préfère de loin aux fondues » — "a dish that a gourmet prefers by far compared to fondues, better than the typical fondue, which is cheese melted in white wine and often served only with bread"*. A well-known gastronome, especially in the area of French cheeses, Courtine is saying that Raclette is better than Fondue.

Cheese fondue, a conglomeration of Emmental and Gruyere, has a wonderful yet subtle creamy, nutty alcohol-infused flavor which makes a tasty appetizer. I say appetizer because it's often eaten with cubes of hearty German brown bread or French baguettes with some sides, pickled onions or baby gherkins, and perhaps some charcuterie (cured meats) as well. This dish is on the mild side of wild, with low-key monotone textures and flavors brought through the bread and the cheese mixture.

La Raclette has similar ingredients, but with the addition of some small, immature potatoes becomes a heartier meal. The raclette cheese itself has a distinctly rich, mature flavor (some say stinky ;)-- and a creamy and gooey texture. The dish's simplicity yet complexity of flavor when combined with the potatoes, sour pickles, salted meats lends itself to a very satisfying meal indeed.

With Raclette, you make a plate of food then pour the melted decadence on top on your own plate; with Fondue, you take your bread, dip it in the cheese fondue and immediately consume-- you never really see the food on your plate! I don't know about you, but for me, there's something psychologically more satisfying about having your own plate of food.

Another thing I like about Raclette is that you know exactly what you're eating-- plain potatoes, cured meats, pickles and cheese... that's it! There's something so proletarian about these ingredients, yet when put together, magically changes into a meal fit for a king. In fondue the centerpiece is the expensive blend of cheeses, with an additive of a thickener like cornstarch giving off a more sophisticated air at first... but leaving you feeling a pauper because your plate always seems empty!

For me, I prefer Raclette over Fondue... but if I'm offered either you won't see me complain!


* excellent translation by Ken Broadhurst-- check out his great blog!